In Pearisburg Emily found a "career" landmark in her email: it's official, she's been awarded a fellowship at Memorial U of Newfoundland! Starting Sept. 1 she'll be studying cod with Drs. Fleming and Purchase. ( - and hiking awesome terrain in her free time!) So, along with doing town errands, she put together another scholarship application. [That's why she's not using her limited computer time to compose these entries herself.]
Congratulations Emily!
Friday, April 30, 2010
"Rolling Hills" of Southwest Virginia
[This update courtesy of Emily's mother, thanks for typing this one up!]
Emily phoned from Pearisburg on Wed., April 21. Yes, she did hike the half-mile side trail to summit Mt Rogers, VA's tallest peak at 5,729'. There was no view, covered with red spruce and "the northernmost natural stand of Fraser fir." [a superlative detail from the AT Guide] She seemed to regret that "there are no alpine zones," but there are plenty of gorgeous views along the ridgelines: the large deciduous trees that cover them aren't yet leafed out. Chestnut Knob on the 17th offered a great view of "God's Thumbprint," one of the nicknames for Burkes Garden, a five-by-ten-mile fertile valley completely ringed by mountains.
She's enjoying "Spring again, cold in the mornings, 60's during the day." Much of the treadway is on old overgrown logging roads, relatively free of rocks and roots. Hiking through rhododendron thickets "seems like hiking through someone's private landscaping," rather than natural growth. Her overall reaction to hiking southwest VA is, "I don't feel like I'm in mountains."
Switchback has been averaging 20 miles a day comfortably. Most nights she's in her tent, but at The Scales on the 14th she simply "cowboy camped" under the stars.
The evening's entertainment was a comparison of her night-sky-print bandanna to reality. Another evening's relaxation was provided by the music of pack guitar from Picker's tent interspersed with the sound of raindrops on her tent. By the 19th, the enthusiastically anticipated Trent's Grocery was on nearly every hiker's mind, but Emily wasn't suffering from any cravings for particular foods. [She doesn't like hot dogs or tomatoey pizza sauce, and the care packages have been "EXCELLENT!"] Her reward for that day's good hike was to set up camp a little early and read for a good long while next to the Falls of Dismal. [This one's nominated for Eeriest Place Name! - just happens to be on Dismal Creek.]
Emily phoned from Pearisburg on Wed., April 21. Yes, she did hike the half-mile side trail to summit Mt Rogers, VA's tallest peak at 5,729'. There was no view, covered with red spruce and "the northernmost natural stand of Fraser fir." [a superlative detail from the AT Guide] She seemed to regret that "there are no alpine zones," but there are plenty of gorgeous views along the ridgelines: the large deciduous trees that cover them aren't yet leafed out. Chestnut Knob on the 17th offered a great view of "God's Thumbprint," one of the nicknames for Burkes Garden, a five-by-ten-mile fertile valley completely ringed by mountains.
She's enjoying "Spring again, cold in the mornings, 60's during the day." Much of the treadway is on old overgrown logging roads, relatively free of rocks and roots. Hiking through rhododendron thickets "seems like hiking through someone's private landscaping," rather than natural growth. Her overall reaction to hiking southwest VA is, "I don't feel like I'm in mountains."
Switchback has been averaging 20 miles a day comfortably. Most nights she's in her tent, but at The Scales on the 14th she simply "cowboy camped" under the stars.
The evening's entertainment was a comparison of her night-sky-print bandanna to reality. Another evening's relaxation was provided by the music of pack guitar from Picker's tent interspersed with the sound of raindrops on her tent. By the 19th, the enthusiastically anticipated Trent's Grocery was on nearly every hiker's mind, but Emily wasn't suffering from any cravings for particular foods. [She doesn't like hot dogs or tomatoey pizza sauce, and the care packages have been "EXCELLENT!"] Her reward for that day's good hike was to set up camp a little early and read for a good long while next to the Falls of Dismal. [This one's nominated for Eeriest Place Name! - just happens to be on Dismal Creek.]
Superlatives
1. Favorite meal and/or snack: trail meal = Knorr broccoli and cheese pasta side, tuna or salmon with mayo and relish, chocolate for dessert; town snack = potato salad and swiss cake rolls
2. What is the best song or mantra that has found its way into yer head on th' trail? The Happy Wanderer is the most common song in my head, although I have different tunes every day. I’ve also composed one that gets stuck in my head a lot, to the tune of “Battle Hymn of the Republic”.
3. Who has been the most unlikely thru-hiker? Bulldog, who is trying to be the first blind guy to thru-hike the AT using just sticks (hiking poles)...although he has a camera man with him who is filming for a documentary...good intentions, and it sounds really challenging (what does he do at trail junctions???), but they skipped the Smokies and several other sections so far.
4. Most unusual hiker? (Please describe!) On March 20 I decided to tent camp at Locust Cove. I heard some voices down by the spring. I knew I was in the front of my thru-hiker group for that day, and a jeep trail led from the valley toward the spring, so I was unsure who might be down there on the weekend. Then three guys (plus a dog) walk up from the spring, wearing all camouflage clothing, carrying HUGE external frame packs with all sorts of gear hanging on the sides, hunting knives strapped to their belts, and one carrying an axe. The normal questions arise, how are you, where are you hiking to, etc. They said they were hiking to Fontana to go fishing. Hmmm. A pack of my fellow thru-hikers showed up, and we all pitched our tents. These guys didn’t even lay out sleeping bags for the night. Hard core!
5. Best Trail Magic? Unicoi Gap, Georgia (day 6). I’d been hiking in the rain for a few days. Coming steeply downhill to the gap I was thinking it’d be really nice to sit down out of the rain for a few minutes before climbing the next mountain. Wayne and Linda had a large tent, folding chairs, sandwich fixings, cookies, fruit, donuts, chips, soda, sweet tea, etc.
6. Best/Most Unusual Trail name? Little Spoon and Big Fork are a couple from Maine…we call them Cutlery. Grandma…who is a guy…he’s just really slow at packing.
7. Best weird conversation overheard in a shelter (or participated in)? March 17, Wayah Shelter. A conversation on the merits, characteristics, properties, and varied uses (of which there are many) of Livermush. Scruffy had packed some in from town and was sharing with everyone (yes, I tried some and it was good). For those of you unfamiliar with this southern delicacy, livermush is a processed meat product, similar to liverwurst, which can be eaten cold, fried, in omelets, etc. Use your imagination. We then proceeded to refer to Livermush for aobut 3 or 4 days afterwards, normally wishing we had some (it’d be really good in ramen, wouldn’t it?).
8. Greatest missed photo op? Documenting all the snow when I crossed into North Carolina, since my camera had gotten wet and wasn’t working, but more specifically it would have been March 14 at Muskrat Crek Shelter. Due to cold rain and snow, the shelter was full, with a couple tents pitched right next to it, and one guy (Picker) sleeping on the picnic table under the awning.
9. Largest mudhole? The entrance and floor of Double Spring Shelter in the Smokies (thanks to melting snow)
10. Friendliest hiker? Dr. John—a two-time thru hiker (’04 and ’07), he packed out some treats for me when he stopped at towns and I didn’t (milk, grapes, summer sausage).
11. Best shelter? Mountaineer Shelter in Tennessee (although I didn’t sleep there).
12. Eeriest place name? Dismal Creek Falls
13. Longest day? 21.2 mile on April 14 from Lost Mtn. Shelter over Mt. Rogers and the Grayson Highlands to a cowboy camp at The Scales.
14. Best mountain? Roan High Knob
15. Favorite section? Virginia Highlands/Grayson Highlands
16. Funniest moment? March 17, I had to push on to Wayah Shelter because there was too much snow at the campsite. I arrived late, in the rain, tired, hoping for a spot in the shelter. I hadn’t met any of the guys there before. I walk in and one guy (Scruffy) hands me a bottle filled with a warm, yellowish liquid…to warm my hands (turns out it was tea, but I didn’t know!). Then another guy (Sofa King) hands me a plastic grenade and tells me to pull the pin! (turns out it just makes noise). An interesting way to meet these guys, with whom I ended up hiking for a couple days.
2. What is the best song or mantra that has found its way into yer head on th' trail? The Happy Wanderer is the most common song in my head, although I have different tunes every day. I’ve also composed one that gets stuck in my head a lot, to the tune of “Battle Hymn of the Republic”.
3. Who has been the most unlikely thru-hiker? Bulldog, who is trying to be the first blind guy to thru-hike the AT using just sticks (hiking poles)...although he has a camera man with him who is filming for a documentary...good intentions, and it sounds really challenging (what does he do at trail junctions???), but they skipped the Smokies and several other sections so far.
4. Most unusual hiker? (Please describe!) On March 20 I decided to tent camp at Locust Cove. I heard some voices down by the spring. I knew I was in the front of my thru-hiker group for that day, and a jeep trail led from the valley toward the spring, so I was unsure who might be down there on the weekend. Then three guys (plus a dog) walk up from the spring, wearing all camouflage clothing, carrying HUGE external frame packs with all sorts of gear hanging on the sides, hunting knives strapped to their belts, and one carrying an axe. The normal questions arise, how are you, where are you hiking to, etc. They said they were hiking to Fontana to go fishing. Hmmm. A pack of my fellow thru-hikers showed up, and we all pitched our tents. These guys didn’t even lay out sleeping bags for the night. Hard core!
5. Best Trail Magic? Unicoi Gap, Georgia (day 6). I’d been hiking in the rain for a few days. Coming steeply downhill to the gap I was thinking it’d be really nice to sit down out of the rain for a few minutes before climbing the next mountain. Wayne and Linda had a large tent, folding chairs, sandwich fixings, cookies, fruit, donuts, chips, soda, sweet tea, etc.
6. Best/Most Unusual Trail name? Little Spoon and Big Fork are a couple from Maine…we call them Cutlery. Grandma…who is a guy…he’s just really slow at packing.
7. Best weird conversation overheard in a shelter (or participated in)? March 17, Wayah Shelter. A conversation on the merits, characteristics, properties, and varied uses (of which there are many) of Livermush. Scruffy had packed some in from town and was sharing with everyone (yes, I tried some and it was good). For those of you unfamiliar with this southern delicacy, livermush is a processed meat product, similar to liverwurst, which can be eaten cold, fried, in omelets, etc. Use your imagination. We then proceeded to refer to Livermush for aobut 3 or 4 days afterwards, normally wishing we had some (it’d be really good in ramen, wouldn’t it?).
8. Greatest missed photo op? Documenting all the snow when I crossed into North Carolina, since my camera had gotten wet and wasn’t working, but more specifically it would have been March 14 at Muskrat Crek Shelter. Due to cold rain and snow, the shelter was full, with a couple tents pitched right next to it, and one guy (Picker) sleeping on the picnic table under the awning.
9. Largest mudhole? The entrance and floor of Double Spring Shelter in the Smokies (thanks to melting snow)
10. Friendliest hiker? Dr. John—a two-time thru hiker (’04 and ’07), he packed out some treats for me when he stopped at towns and I didn’t (milk, grapes, summer sausage).
11. Best shelter? Mountaineer Shelter in Tennessee (although I didn’t sleep there).
12. Eeriest place name? Dismal Creek Falls
13. Longest day? 21.2 mile on April 14 from Lost Mtn. Shelter over Mt. Rogers and the Grayson Highlands to a cowboy camp at The Scales.
14. Best mountain? Roan High Knob
15. Favorite section? Virginia Highlands/Grayson Highlands
16. Funniest moment? March 17, I had to push on to Wayah Shelter because there was too much snow at the campsite. I arrived late, in the rain, tired, hoping for a spot in the shelter. I hadn’t met any of the guys there before. I walk in and one guy (Scruffy) hands me a bottle filled with a warm, yellowish liquid…to warm my hands (turns out it was tea, but I didn’t know!). Then another guy (Sofa King) hands me a plastic grenade and tells me to pull the pin! (turns out it just makes noise). An interesting way to meet these guys, with whom I ended up hiking for a couple days.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
New Trail Notes and Pictures
Today (Tuesday April 27th) Emily is in Bedford, VA at her Uncle’s house. She's taking a zero day, as in hiking zero miles, to recharge and upload photos. For the next few days she'll be doing some slack packing, which means to day hike and use the same sleeping location every night. In this case the sleeping location is a real house!
While not really a journal entry, Emily had this to say:
Keep thinking of superlatives and random facts you'd like to hear about. Right now the list is less than ten items, we can do better than that!
While not really a journal entry, Emily had this to say:
While walking all day (often by myself), I have re-written a couple songs. “Ode to Maintainers” (to The Man on the Flying Trapeze): “You maintain the trail with the greatest of ease; cut blowdowns in pieces move branches and trees; though just volunteers you’re as busy as bees; three cheers for the trails maintainers…ees; (where are you please??)”. For those of you familiar with Michael Cooney’s song about Bosco: “I hate blowdowns, they’re bad for you and me. When you try to walk them they’ll scrape up both your knees. Push through slowly or end up your belly, and then you’ll hate the blowdowns—just you wait and see!” The good news is the maintainers have been out now on most sections, so you can once again hike (rather than clamber) along the trail.
Keep thinking of superlatives and random facts you'd like to hear about. Right now the list is less than ten items, we can do better than that!
So after Damascus:
MAN was my pack heavy on that uphill climb out of town (yes, it is always uphill after town stops). I’ve definitely gained a hiker appetite…so trying to carry 8 days of supplies was a challenge (but still possible). I did my first 20 mile day on the 14th, and have done several since. I climbed Mt. Rogers, the highest mtn in VA. No views, but the summit is covered with Fraser firs, so I felt like I was on a real mountain. Most mountains/ridges down here have large deciduous trees so it feels like low elevation to me, and all the rhododendrons make me feel like I’m walking thru someone’s tropical shrubbery garden. The VA highlands and Grayson Highlands were beautiful. Grassy ridges (lots of views), rocky trail…and wild ponies. They are eager to be scratched, and love to lick the salt off sweaty hikers and their gear.
April 15
500 miles hiked so far. The night before Frost, Picker and I had a celebratory campfire. The trail so far in Virginia has been a lot of ridge walks, and then it dips into valleys and crosses cow pasture. I’ve climbed over a lot of stiles (wooden ladders over fences), and even had to shoo cows off the trail. Definitely a difference feel than the Maine AT.
April 17
Met some maintainers (Piedmont ATClub) building rock steps—they asked if I wanted to help them collect rocks, and then suggested I take some back to Maine (or at least take a Pulaski back). I declined. I also had to convince them I was from Maine, since I don’t really have much of a Maine accent. The next day two guys (Pine and Dreamcatcher) tried a 50 mile day. Turns out they only did 47 b/c of bad signage, and they were sore for a couple days after…but they said they’d do another 50 again. Crazy. I like 20 mile days just fine.
April 21
Ducked into Pearisburg to resupply, but decided not to spend the night (false rumor that the hostel was closed) so I camped a couple miles out of town. Met up with a new group of hikers: Mellow Yellow, Cookie Monster, Sockburn (from Germany, he burns his worn out socks), Hobbot. The birds are singing around 6:15 in the morning, so I’m getting early starts. Lots of birds out, lots of flowers (trees and shrubs too), and high humidity. Dragons Tooth and McAfee Knob are highlights of the non-descript trail. After hiking miles along view-free ridges, large rocky outcrops are a welcome sight, especially when the trail goes over/through them. We spent an hour on McAfee knob, but some ominous thunderclouds sent us to the shelter before sunset.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
The things I do for you...
Given our latest bout of failed technology, we've had to circumvent the problem in a most creative way. The following is a series of trail notes, but you have to understand how they ended up in their current format.
Emily called her parents on Monday April 12th. She gave them some kind of summary for her days, while her mother hand wrote notes during the phone call. Next Barbara typed up the notes, but lacking an internet connection herself, printed them out and took them to the library. There, the pages were scanned into a computer to be sent to yours truly. The issue with scanning is that the scanner makes a picture file, not a text file. So even though I received the notes, I still had to type them up from the picture because you cannot copy and paste the text out of a .jpeg file.
So here were are, in the 4th rendition of the journal entries. If you spot any grammatical errors, please send an email and I'll get it patched up. That goes for any entry. You can also sent me suggestions for improvements to the site, or things you'd like to hear about.
Finally, keep suggesting superlatives! It's completely free to comment, and easy too.
Emily called her parents on Monday April 12th. She gave them some kind of summary for her days, while her mother hand wrote notes during the phone call. Next Barbara typed up the notes, but lacking an internet connection herself, printed them out and took them to the library. There, the pages were scanned into a computer to be sent to yours truly. The issue with scanning is that the scanner makes a picture file, not a text file. So even though I received the notes, I still had to type them up from the picture because you cannot copy and paste the text out of a .jpeg file.
So here were are, in the 4th rendition of the journal entries. If you spot any grammatical errors, please send an email and I'll get it patched up. That goes for any entry. You can also sent me suggestions for improvements to the site, or things you'd like to hear about.
Finally, keep suggesting superlatives! It's completely free to comment, and easy too.
Days 26 - 38
April 1 (Day 26)
A brief conversation with a couple day hikers brought out an excited “Oh! The blueberry pie at.... that place...” “Yeah, Helen's.”
The ridge line over Big Fire Scald Bald was rocky and exposed ledge. Trail notes warned of an 8 foot vertical scramble requiring the use of hands. Emily met a SOBO (SOuth BOund hiker) who earnestly advised that she avoid it by hiking the bad weather bypass. Emily did not follow his advice. That night she wrote in the Shelton Graves register, “That was a nice taste of NH and ME, but where was the so-called 'scramble'?” Not trying to be a wiseguy, but just letting NOBOs (NOrth BOund hikers) know what's ahead.
April 2 & 3
“Why am I sweating when I'm going DOWNhill?” Someone said it was 83 degrees; another source claimed it was 87. Early spring flowers are blooming, but there are no leaves yet on the trees. When she needed to rest, she'd find a tree with a big enough shadow that she could be entirely out of the sun. After a while, she said, “It felt like my shadow didn't want to leave the shade.” and, thinking further of Peter Pan, “Wouldn't it be nice if we could hike in our own shadow all day!” Since that's not an option, daydreams of ice cubes, ice cream, and SCUBA diving in the Gulf Of Maine kept Emily hiking through the heat.
Spring weather on the AT is just as changeable as the terrain. Hiking over Big Bald was so windy that, leaning into the wind, she could feel her pack lurching sideways. Brown grass, brambles and hawthorns reminder her of Oregon. She spent the night in Erwin, TN.
April 4
Today's hike ended “kinda like Maine”. Emily camped on Unaka Mt. Covered with red spruce that “smelled really nice.” There were some scraggly blowdowns to negotiate: “You know what THEY'RE like!”
April 5
This 18.9 mile day ended after a 2000 foot ascent to the highest shelter (6,275 feet) on the AT, Roan High Knob, TN. The last mile of trail was covered with a foot and a half of rotten snow over an inch and a half of flowing water. [We spelled that out so there would be no doubt in your mind about how wet and messy it was!] Since she couldn't avoid breaking through it, Emily channeled her frustration into “stomping the snow to oblivion” thinking it might be helpful to hikers following her.
April 6
Leaving Roan High Knob was nasty, cold and messy on a muddy trail that had more water running down it than some of the streams she surveyed in OR last summer. It seemed there were blowdowns every ten steps! Grassy balds later in the day gave a reward of really nice 360 views. Emily investigated a box of pamphlets promoting an adopt-a-goat effort: when the grass turns green goats are brought here to graze, preserving the grassy balds by preventing blackberries from taking over. That night she camped on the NC/TN State Line at Doll Flats [Editor's note: The AT runs along the border of NC and TN for many miles, often crossing back and forth. Emily is not back tracking or lost, people just thought the mountains made a nice state border at that point.]
April 7
Our favorite experienced map reader and trail finder was confused! The original AT went straight up over and down the ridge lines. Apparently the atmosphere in the neighborhood of the Buck Mt Road gave cause for relocation of the trail, accomplished with a section of “ridiculous” switchbacks that cross and re-cross the original trail. The problem is that the original blazes aren't covered up, so a hiker can find the familiar white blaze in ALL directions at some intersections. Sometimes a few “skinny little sticks” were discernible as blocking the old pathway. Emily's guide was to know whether she should be going uphill or down, rather than going along with other hikers.
April 8
The day brought some rain, but Laurel Fork Falls is “really really pretty.” By the end of this day, Emily had hiked a total of more than 400 miles. This night at Laurel Fork shelter was her first encounter with inconsiderate hikers: oooh and is she ever grumpy when her sleep is interrupted for no good reason! Bears beware, there's a sleep deprived Emily in these parts.
April 9, 10, 11
Emily took it easy these days: she wanted to be in Damascus, VA on a Monday rather than a Saturday or Sunday, because of business hours. So in spite of the long, flat ridge line from Erwin or Hampton TN, which bears the nickname “the Tennessee Turnpike,” she didn't cruise. Some call it “the Damascus Dash.” Trail gossip said that one guy pushed 50 miles on 12 Snickers bars and ended up paying for it with an unplanned day in Damascus. Since Emily's not traveling that fast, she's spotted turkeys, deer, a barred owl, a snake, and robins, juncos, wrens, and thrushes. She can't name the flowers, but several remind her of Maine varieties.
April 13
After a refreshing resupply in Damascus, VA, 463.5 miles from the starting point of Springer Mt GA, Emily is “heading out to rack up some big mile days!”
A brief conversation with a couple day hikers brought out an excited “Oh! The blueberry pie at.... that place...” “Yeah, Helen's.”
The ridge line over Big Fire Scald Bald was rocky and exposed ledge. Trail notes warned of an 8 foot vertical scramble requiring the use of hands. Emily met a SOBO (SOuth BOund hiker) who earnestly advised that she avoid it by hiking the bad weather bypass. Emily did not follow his advice. That night she wrote in the Shelton Graves register, “That was a nice taste of NH and ME, but where was the so-called 'scramble'?” Not trying to be a wiseguy, but just letting NOBOs (NOrth BOund hikers) know what's ahead.
April 2 & 3
“Why am I sweating when I'm going DOWNhill?” Someone said it was 83 degrees; another source claimed it was 87. Early spring flowers are blooming, but there are no leaves yet on the trees. When she needed to rest, she'd find a tree with a big enough shadow that she could be entirely out of the sun. After a while, she said, “It felt like my shadow didn't want to leave the shade.” and, thinking further of Peter Pan, “Wouldn't it be nice if we could hike in our own shadow all day!” Since that's not an option, daydreams of ice cubes, ice cream, and SCUBA diving in the Gulf Of Maine kept Emily hiking through the heat.
Spring weather on the AT is just as changeable as the terrain. Hiking over Big Bald was so windy that, leaning into the wind, she could feel her pack lurching sideways. Brown grass, brambles and hawthorns reminder her of Oregon. She spent the night in Erwin, TN.
April 4
Today's hike ended “kinda like Maine”. Emily camped on Unaka Mt. Covered with red spruce that “smelled really nice.” There were some scraggly blowdowns to negotiate: “You know what THEY'RE like!”
April 5
This 18.9 mile day ended after a 2000 foot ascent to the highest shelter (6,275 feet) on the AT, Roan High Knob, TN. The last mile of trail was covered with a foot and a half of rotten snow over an inch and a half of flowing water. [We spelled that out so there would be no doubt in your mind about how wet and messy it was!] Since she couldn't avoid breaking through it, Emily channeled her frustration into “stomping the snow to oblivion” thinking it might be helpful to hikers following her.
April 6
Leaving Roan High Knob was nasty, cold and messy on a muddy trail that had more water running down it than some of the streams she surveyed in OR last summer. It seemed there were blowdowns every ten steps! Grassy balds later in the day gave a reward of really nice 360 views. Emily investigated a box of pamphlets promoting an adopt-a-goat effort: when the grass turns green goats are brought here to graze, preserving the grassy balds by preventing blackberries from taking over. That night she camped on the NC/TN State Line at Doll Flats [Editor's note: The AT runs along the border of NC and TN for many miles, often crossing back and forth. Emily is not back tracking or lost, people just thought the mountains made a nice state border at that point.]
April 7
Our favorite experienced map reader and trail finder was confused! The original AT went straight up over and down the ridge lines. Apparently the atmosphere in the neighborhood of the Buck Mt Road gave cause for relocation of the trail, accomplished with a section of “ridiculous” switchbacks that cross and re-cross the original trail. The problem is that the original blazes aren't covered up, so a hiker can find the familiar white blaze in ALL directions at some intersections. Sometimes a few “skinny little sticks” were discernible as blocking the old pathway. Emily's guide was to know whether she should be going uphill or down, rather than going along with other hikers.
April 8
The day brought some rain, but Laurel Fork Falls is “really really pretty.” By the end of this day, Emily had hiked a total of more than 400 miles. This night at Laurel Fork shelter was her first encounter with inconsiderate hikers: oooh and is she ever grumpy when her sleep is interrupted for no good reason! Bears beware, there's a sleep deprived Emily in these parts.
April 9, 10, 11
Emily took it easy these days: she wanted to be in Damascus, VA on a Monday rather than a Saturday or Sunday, because of business hours. So in spite of the long, flat ridge line from Erwin or Hampton TN, which bears the nickname “the Tennessee Turnpike,” she didn't cruise. Some call it “the Damascus Dash.” Trail gossip said that one guy pushed 50 miles on 12 Snickers bars and ended up paying for it with an unplanned day in Damascus. Since Emily's not traveling that fast, she's spotted turkeys, deer, a barred owl, a snake, and robins, juncos, wrens, and thrushes. She can't name the flowers, but several remind her of Maine varieties.
April 13
After a refreshing resupply in Damascus, VA, 463.5 miles from the starting point of Springer Mt GA, Emily is “heading out to rack up some big mile days!”
Monday, April 12, 2010
Technology Failure
Sad day. Emily is in Damascus VA, right this very minute, but can't upload any pictures or journal entries. Woe is us.
What we're going to do while we wait for a techno-miracle is compose a list of superlatives for the first 500 miles. Things like longest day, tallest mountain, best day, funniest moment, best granola bar...
That's right, I said "we" as in all of you reading this. Leave a comment with the superlative you'd like to see the answer to. I'll make sure Emily gets the list and we'll get you a shiny new blog post in return, how's that sound?
3,2,1 GO!
PS. Approximately 7 days until Pearisburg VA (zip 24134) mail drop, and 21 days until Linden VA (zip 22642) mail drop. Address any mail/package:
Emily Zimmermann
c/o General Delivery
[town, state, zip code]
Please Hold for AT Thru-Hiker
ETA [date]
What we're going to do while we wait for a techno-miracle is compose a list of superlatives for the first 500 miles. Things like longest day, tallest mountain, best day, funniest moment, best granola bar...
That's right, I said "we" as in all of you reading this. Leave a comment with the superlative you'd like to see the answer to. I'll make sure Emily gets the list and we'll get you a shiny new blog post in return, how's that sound?
3,2,1 GO!
PS. Approximately 7 days until Pearisburg VA (zip 24134) mail drop, and 21 days until Linden VA (zip 22642) mail drop. Address any mail/package:
Emily Zimmermann
c/o General Delivery
[town, state, zip code]
Please Hold for AT Thru-Hiker
ETA [date]
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Emily's Own Notes
Today's posts are a series of Emily's own trail journal entries, painstakingly transcribed from pictures taken of her trail journal. You may now all "oooh" and "ahhh" appropriately.
Day 14 3/20
Started the morning with breakfast at the restaurant – sweet potato griddle cakes (gooey), eggs and sausage. The Nantahala River is about 44 degrees. Climbed from 1700' at the rive to 5062' on Cheoah Bald – moderate terrain with a few steep bits. Nice view of the river from the Jump Up. I could even hear the tourist train's whistle. Had lunch on Swim Bald (wooded). First register in a shelter in NC at Sassafras Gap. Sofa caught up to me there – he is starting to have shin splints. The view from Cheoah Bald south was lovely, especially thanks to the folding lawn chair on top. Mountains to the horizon were blue and hazy. Steep ridges, pointy peaks. I hiked 10.5 miles to Locust Cove Gap to tent camp there.
Day 17, 3/23
Nice night in the Hilton, despite one loud snorer. Dragged all morning with low energy, everyone was passing me. Started out cold, cloudy. Hiked into the clouds and then the sun burned thru right in time for Shuckstack Mtn. I only climbed up one tier of the wooden stairs of the tall narrow tower, but the views were excellent. Climbed more than 3000 ft today. Almost stayed at Mollies Ridge, but it was such a GORGEOUS day I decided to move on. Had a snack and got a nice surge of energy to cruise (singing and whistling Colonel Bogey Bridge over River Kwai) to Russell Field Shelter, 13.8 miles. The shelter is stone, with a chain link fence on the front. Photos of : Fontana Lake, AT sign (green is common in NC), Fontana Dam, Below the dam, me entering the Smokies, Fontana Lake, Hollywood disappearing into the mist, Smokies, view from Shuckstack Mtn, Firewardens cabin remains, Russell Field Shelter. Tonight at the shelter: Picker, Cornpatch, Nate-dog, Thrasher and Turkey, Pace car, Guidefoot and Dad, Dr. John (a geology major who's been to Norway and Iceland).
Day 18 3/24
Hiked 16.4 miles today. Glorious weather – I think my arms are sunburned again... I should probably get some sunscreen in Hot Springs. Really nice views from Rocky Top *sings Rocky Top song* and Siler's Bald. The trail was slushy snow or soupy mud most of the day. Lots of snow from Derrick's Knob Shelter to Double spring Gap. I had a 1 hour lunch at Derrick Knob – nice stone shelter with plexiglass sky lights (so is Double Spring). Nate-dog, Picker, Cornpatch, Pace Car, Guidefoot, and Boomhouer hiked with me til lunch, and Mike. I caught up to Dr. John in the pm and hiked with him thru the snow. Saw my first slug this morning. First fir trees too on Jerkins Ridge (Fraser firs and spruce). Really pretty. Nice views of Clingmans's Dome. Tonight with Picker, Hollywood, No Point, Wanderer and Walleye, Dr John is texting.
Day 19 3/25
13.8 miles to Icewater Spring Shelter. In snow all the way except for half mile near Newfound Gap. Snowed on Clingman's Dome, sunny and rain at the same time on the way down. Windy all day. Cold evening with rain. Hollywood, Picker, Mike, and 3 other guys plus 3 section hikers in for the night. 1972 miles to Katahdin!
Day 20 3/26
Hiked 12.6 miles in the snow and ice and wind and rain to Tri-Corner Knob Shelter. I started in the rain, so I zipped down to shorts, then ended up on an exposed and windy ridge for a while. BRRR! Lots of firs and spruces, beautiful ridge walk, but no views because of the clouds. I want to come back to the section in snow free weather. Got to the shelter ~ 2:30, crawled into my sleeping bag to warm up. Crawled out ~ 6:30 for dinner. The sun had come out and all the grees are sparkling with ice. Very pretty – it's like the diamond forest in 12 Dancing Princesses. Springer Mtn to Fontana = 7% of AT hiked, 50% of hiker drop out by then. Highest point on AT is Clingman's Dome, 6625'. AT runs for 35 miles without dropping below 5000 ft (that's why it's so cold and snowy!) Normally when I approach hikers from behind I click my poles together to let them know I'm there. Today my poles iced up so I couldn't click them.
For those following my trip who aren't backpackers, here is a sample day of winter hiking (like my first 4 days in NC and the Smokies): Wake up ~ 7am, Grab fleece jacket and gloves from inside sleeping bag. Option A – scurry to the privy ASAP. Option B – find head lamp and put in contact lenses. Next, take off long johns and put on pants (also kept in sleeping bag). Take off wool socks, cover up any blisters or “hot spots” (potential blisters) with mole skin, gauze, or duct tape. Put on socks from the day before (from sleeping bag). Go to privy. On way back to shelter, retrieve food bag from bear cables. Get pot, stove, fuel from pack (which was used as a pillow) and cook 2 packets of instant oatmeal for breakfast. Pack up everything and strip down to tee-shirt and long sleeve shirt, fleece hat, shorts, knee high gaiters, boots, and yaktrax. Get hiking ASAP because it's COLD! Hike ~ 30 minutes then trade hat for bandana (around neck since the night before). Hike for 7-8 hours, stopping for lunch if it's nice, or snacking on the way if it's cold. Roll into a shelter in the afternoon after hiking 12-15 miles in snow. Claim a spot with my sleeping pad, fill my water bag and treat water with chlorine drops. Refill hydration bladder and small nalgene. Visit privy, change out of boots and wet socks. Put on long johns, pants, dry socks, long john top, long sleeve shirt and fleece jacket (plus rain pants and jacket if it's really super cold). Set veggies, etc, to soak in pot while I spread out sleeping bag and get ready for the night. Cook dinner followed by hot cocoa. Visit privy one last time, crawl into sleeping bag THEN strip down to long johns. Read for a bit and finally sleep. Repeat the next day. =)
For those following my trip who aren't backpackers, here is a sample day of winter hiking (like my first 4 days in NC and the Smokies): Wake up ~ 7am, Grab fleece jacket and gloves from inside sleeping bag. Option A – scurry to the privy ASAP. Option B – find head lamp and put in contact lenses. Next, take off long johns and put on pants (also kept in sleeping bag). Take off wool socks, cover up any blisters or “hot spots” (potential blisters) with mole skin, gauze, or duct tape. Put on socks from the day before (from sleeping bag). Go to privy. On way back to shelter, retrieve food bag from bear cables. Get pot, stove, fuel from pack (which was used as a pillow) and cook 2 packets of instant oatmeal for breakfast. Pack up everything and strip down to tee-shirt and long sleeve shirt, fleece hat, shorts, knee high gaiters, boots, and yaktrax. Get hiking ASAP because it's COLD! Hike ~ 30 minutes then trade hat for bandana (around neck since the night before). Hike for 7-8 hours, stopping for lunch if it's nice, or snacking on the way if it's cold. Roll into a shelter in the afternoon after hiking 12-15 miles in snow. Claim a spot with my sleeping pad, fill my water bag and treat water with chlorine drops. Refill hydration bladder and small nalgene. Visit privy, change out of boots and wet socks. Put on long johns, pants, dry socks, long john top, long sleeve shirt and fleece jacket (plus rain pants and jacket if it's really super cold). Set veggies, etc, to soak in pot while I spread out sleeping bag and get ready for the night. Cook dinner followed by hot cocoa. Visit privy one last time, crawl into sleeping bag THEN strip down to long johns. Read for a bit and finally sleep. Repeat the next day. =)
Day 21 3/27
Woke up this morning to COLD! My boots were frozen! The ice was glittering on all the trees on the North side of the ridge and the wind was blowing chunks off. The trail was covered in the chunks – it was like walking through an inch of ice cubes. The usn was out all day. I hiked .6 miles to the Mt. Cammerer fire look out – gorgeous 360 degree views of the Smokeis, the valley to the North and West, etc. A bunch of day hiker were up there. Right before Cosby Knob I dropped below the snow line for the rest of the day. The birds were singing, I saw a snake and a snail – it's spring! Tonight = 2600' above sea level – Davenport Gap Shelter – 14.8 miles and 1.2 side trail to tower. Picker, Hopi, Hollywood, and Mike at the shelter.
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